Step back in time to the late 1800s and take a closer look at one of the most iconic fashion statements of the Victorian era – the Bustle. Originally introduced as a means of surviving the “no-waist” look, the Bustle would come to represent the pomp and excess fashionable at the time, but it also holds a fascinating history, and is considered to be an enduring and regal statement of a long gone era. This article delves into a closer look at this beautiful piece of fashion history – the Victorian Bustle.
1. The Birth of the Bustle
 The fashionable world was dramatically changed in 1840 with the invention of the bustle. It transformed the silhouette of women’s fashion and was the dressmaking’s ‘must-have’ for many decades.
The bustle consists of a frame made of steel, whalebone, cane, or wood upon which drapery, skirts and trimmings were draped and gathered. With constructed shapes like a half-hoop, a dome, a flat projection or a full krida-like skirt bump, ladies were able to choose the look best suited for them.
- Full Hoop: a large volume of fabric was draped at the back and gathered at the sides into pleats.
- Dome: sleeves were tied together above the waist with loops and attached to small frames so that the fabric could hang freely in a dome shape.
- Flat Projection: the fabric was draped at the sides and sewn into the waist as two flat wings that projected outwards on either side of the body.
The bustle was first introduced at the court of Napoléon III and Empress Eugénie of France. The empress herself was a great influence on the fashion world with her love for ballgowns trimmed with feathers and jewels. The look became an instant success with many European ladies wanting to copy her style.
As the silhouette evolved over the years, a lady’s wardrobe was never complete without a couple of bustles as they quickly became a fashion staple. The bustle was used in formal gowns, eveningwear, dresses, blouses and of course daywear.
2. Twisting and Turning: The Mechanics of the Bustle
The bustle is a mystery that has perplexed many. As elusive as a mist, it was almost impossible to let it settle. But, underneath the surface of the fabric lay the answer. The mechanical workings of the bustle made it so special.
The fabric of the bustle was as light as air, but the framework underneath was rigid. Shape and support were provided with boning and stays. This boning was in the form of whalebone, metal and cork or even wood for the strongest of shapes. This helped keep the fabric in the desired shape, around the bottom of the dress.
On top of this, a special construction method was used. Twisting and turning was at the heart of the bustle structure. Strips of fabric were cut and sewn together in a spiral, then this strip was manipulated in an odd manner. By turning the ends in different directions before being secured to the dress and a metal frame, the shape of the bustle was crafted.
- Bonings & stays provided shape and support
- Fabric strips were cut and twisted for the desired shape
- Fabric was secured to the dress and metal frame.
The bustle was a magical creation. By combining the two elements of structure and shaping mechanics, the ultimate curved shape was crafted. It had taken a few brave souls to unlock the secrets of the bustle, but the outcome was something to be proud of. Now, with all the knowledge at hand, this elegant piece of apparel can be worn with elegance and style.
3. Fascinating Variations of the Bustle
The decade of the 1870s and 1880s was known for intricate and eye-catching fashion, particularly the widely popular bustle. Despite its penchant for opulence, the classic bustle has some interesting variations worth knowing about.
- The Muriel Bustle: The Muriel bustle is a modified look of the traditional bustle. It is a combination of a few fullnesses in back tied together, often elaborately. This style was most popular in the late 1870s.
- The Slipper Bustle: This is a sophisticated style that was also known as the Lantern bustle or Princess bustle. The dress was full on one side to resemble a slipper shape and featured bunches of fabric cascading from the waist. This bustle style was in vogue during the early 1880s.
- The Falda Bustle: There was great versatility in the Falda bustle, since it could be manufactured in many forms depending upon the occasion. It was a flat, flared skirt with a light gathering at the back, which gave the effect of a bustle. It was popular during the 1880s.
- The Long Menu Bustle: This was one of the earliest types of bustles, quite popular in the mid 1870s. It was a great combination of the train and the bustle and took the shape of a flat fan. Examples of this bustle were found in mantillas, with the bustle slightly longer than the train.
These reflect the intricate fashion of the era. With careful styling, one can create a fashion look that embodies the timelessness of this piece of history.
Whether in its traditional form or as a creative variation, the bustle brings both fashion and nostalgia to the modern wardrobe.
4. The Victorians: Pioneers of a Flattering Silhouette
The Victorian era was a period of great socio-economic revolutions, and the way women dressed was no exception. Flattering silhouettes representing ideal body shapes of the time were created through constrictive corsets and bustles.
- Corsets: The corset was an essential article of clothing for Victorian women, made from a sturdy, but bendable material such as whalebone or metal with a corset cover that was often heavily decorated with lace and embroidery. Corsets were designed to narrowly constrict and shape the waist, so as to create an hourglass shape.
- Bustles: Bustles were created to add volume to a woman’s skirt and back profile. These were typically made of layers of fabric that were gathered and draped over a hoop or frame for a voluminous silhouette.
The effects of corsets and bustles were amplified with bloomers, petticoats, and skirts that featured pleating, draping, and ruffles. Not only did these garments help create flattering silhouettes, but they also helped set the foundation for some of the most iconic pieces of clothing today.
The fashion of the Victorian era was highly ornate and detailed, and is still admired to this day for its timeless elegance. Despite the perceived restraints of these corsets and bustles, women of the era still found ways to be fashionable, flaunting their unique styles through intricate details and embellishments.
5. Bustling Back: Present-Day Influences of the Bustle
When the bustle made its debut in the mid 19th century, it revolutionised the way women dressed – and not just for those of a certain time period. Its distinctive design influences many elements of modern-day fashion.
Perhaps, one of the most distinct features of the bustle is its silhouette. Full skirts, tight waists, and voluminous backside are modern design elements that have, arguably, been influenced directly by the bussle. Not just in a structural sense, but in terms of decorative details too. Ruffles, pleats, draping, and even bows – with its playful yet attractive nature, the bustle has certainly left its mark.
But the impact of the bustle goes beyond design as well. Its coziness-inducing fit promotes body positivity, as it celebrates the female form – quite a contrast to the bodices of corsets of previous eras. This, in combination with its laid-back luxury, has allowed the bustle, in some form or the other, to make a comeback as a modern wardrobe staple.
The bustle has transformed from a formalwear piece to a fun and versatile item. Its playful boning structure gives way to a zest of imagination, making it a suitable choice for any occasion. Whether for an informal dinner, a wedding, a prom, or any special event, the bustle in its modern forms is a worthy counterpart, and the perfect pick-me-up for any wardrobe.
The Victorian Bustle is certainly an interesting piece of fashion that many women embraced during the Victorian era and beyond. Its lasting legacy is an example of how fashion has continuously evolved to reflect changing tastes and trends. Without the bustle, the fashion of the nineteenth century certainly would have been incomplete.
